Day 80 - The final instalment

  

Around the world in 80 days or Asia in my case. My time here was coming to an end but with one day left I had some last minute tanning and relaxing to do before heading back to reality and planning my next excursion. By the pool I had time to reflect on what an amazing experience I have had. I am so pleased I also documented my travels and that you guys reading it have spurred me on to keep it going. With over 3000 views so far it's amazing I have managed to keep you entertained. 

Not only has it been life changing, this trip has humbled me to a totally different way of life (let's just exclude the luxury hotels for the last three weeks and return to my time in the jungle) the work of the people in both the centres is selfless and truly inspirational and it was a huge privilege to work with them. If anyone wants to do something like this please feel free to contact me and I will give you further details if this blog wasn't enough to tempt you. 

It has reinforced my feelings that my life in the UK is not where I am destined to stay. Not that I don't have it good because I have a wonderful life there but I want to achieve something in life and make a small difference to the animals that require it. 

We had one last 'to do' Item on our list and that was a Thai boxing match. What a fantastic experience that was especially as there was an American fighter at the end who won so it just made the night extra special.
                                        

Day 79 - Phuket Thailand - Private boat trips and Tropical Islands

George had booked us on a fantastic tour that we had changed prior to going to Phi Phi. The original one would have taken us by speedboat to Phi Phi instead we booked onto the James Bond Island tour. It was an early start and the boys joined our transfer to see if they could get their own tour at the port. 

The guy Mark, an ozzy who runs these tours met us at the port. After some looking about he suggested we swap to a private tour at no extra cost and the boys could tag onto that as there was no room on the big tour. Get In!! Instead of speedboat we had a traditional Thai long boat. This tagging along with other traveler thing works out cushty sometimes :) 

We met our captain and settled into our little boat. All our food and drink for the day was included and we set off. First stop was a secluded lagoon, we had to climb out of the boat onto an elevated ledge and then through a cave. The speedboat doesn't do half today's agenda as the boat is too big and there are too many people for the logistics. This was going to be good, and we were not disappointed. Once out the other side, was the lagoon, totally encompassed by sheer cliffs in a perfect circle, a proper wow moment. After a few snaps and photo bombs of each others shots we headed back to the boat and set off for some monkey watching. 

I am not sure what type they are but they live on the cliff edges and shelter under the entrances to caves. Being in a small boat you don't disturb them like a large on with lots of happy snappers aboard. We even managed to see a sea monitor lizard. The boat then pulled up at a tiny beach about 12ft wide and we got out for a swim. My fear of water is definitely subsiding and I even managed to go out where I couldn't stand. Then I needed a wee. Weeing in the sea while trying to tread water is a nightmare but I did it! 

Returning to the boat we cracked open some beer and set about sunbathing on the benches the breeze in our hair. What a perfect way to spend the day. Soon enough we arrived at James Bond Island so called because they filmed one of them here. We didn't stop as it was a bit too touristy instead we sailed past slowly so we could get shots before speeding up and heading for some cave paintings. After a I few shots of that we moored up at a floating village. 

Not like the one in Vietnamese Halong Bay. These ones are on stilts. We had lunch which was far to much food but was delicious, I think I ate more than the other three put together but that's just how I role. Once I was stuffed enough I could barely walk we joined the original group for a guided tour round the village. They are blinding a mosque for the 2000 strong community. We even saw a football field that was built by the kids here and there is actually a video on YouTube about how they built it and joined in the mainland tournaments and did really well. It all goes to prove dreams can come true. 

However, it was scorching hot and we were all wilting like dehydrated plants in the direct sunlight so we scurried through to miss the crowds and boarded back on the boat. Next stop canoeing or kayaking, we had an English American debate the whole way there. A local rowed us around a small group of very tiny caves leading us into more lagoons. We had to duck so we were practically laying down to get under most of them but inside the caverns was beautiful. We all did the echo shouting which made us all giggle. I swear our local was off his head on god knows what and found this hilarious. 

After returning to our boat we had just enough time to visit one last beach. Woweeeeeeeee! Think paradise, crystal clear shallow water lapping gently at the beach on a deserted island in the middle of nowhere. I could have stayed there for hours if it weren't for a busy flight path directly over head. I think it is truly impossible to find the prefect paradise in this modern world. But nevertheless it was relaxing and a great way to wind down after our action packed day. 

Our captain, Mr. bean as he likes to be known, sailed us back to port where Mark greeted us. He really went out of his way this morning and it paid off. I could not thank him enough and if you ever visit this area I recommend you use his company the service was exceptional and reasonably priced. 

Our transfer bus returned us to the hotel where we went to the pool before heading out to dinner and calling it an early night. 
                                        
                                        

Day 78 - Phi Phi Island Thailand - Tattoos make you miss boats

A lie in happened this morning much to my relief. Breakfast was marginally better than yesterday and Georgie even managed half a slice of toast. Brent had made his way to scuba diving so Shaun hung out with us for the morning, we decided to pool for a bit before checkout. Once we gathered all the bags we headed to explore what the island had to offer considering we had wasted our time here so far hungover. 

First stop some pampering, Shaun opted for a massage while George and I had a pedicure and foot massage. George even managed a hair braid, she is definitely taking this hippy traveler lifestyle in her stride. After being preened we headed to one of the many tattoo parlours offering traditional bamboo tattoo. 

It's not like what I had instead they use one fine piece of bamboo with a needle on the end. They balance this on one hand using the other to pierce the skin. Georgie found a lovely group of elephants and decided to have that on her left foot. It took just over an hour and a half and before completion Brent had returned from an entertaining scuba trip. Apparently it wasn't as calm as expected and he ended up being kicked in the face by his instructor when he freaked out seeing a barracuda. 

Georgie's tattoo looked awesome and I was kind of jealous I hadn't partaken. But we had a boat to catch so we backpacked up with our matching bags which becomes complicated in a group and wove our way through the narrow streets to the port. 

The narrow paved streets house a multitude of small family businesses selling all a kinds of souvenirs, t-shirts, ornaments and food. After about half an hour we had made it to the other side of the island alive but extremely sweaty without being run over by a bicycle or luggage cart only to find we had missed our boat and the last one was leaving imminently. We purchased some new tickets, jumped the fence backpacks and all and ran onto the boat. Setting up camp on the top deck ensured us the remaining sunshine on our journey back to Phuket. 

Having missed the boat we also missed our transfer to the hotel. Today was clearly not going our way. We decided to all wing it together in a taxi. By the time we made it back to our hotel (the one we stayed in before Phi Phi) we were shattered. Luckily we got cold towels while we waited for checkin. The boys decided to book in too saving them the hassel of wandering the streets after dark finding accommodation. 

A little bit of early evening pool beaconed so we raided the boys mini bar before drinking in the pool. All was going swimmingly until the pool attacked me! The edges of it have been designed by a completed idiot. I am not sure what they were thinking when they decided that adding a lip to the central seating area that consisted of razor sharp glass and sand was a good idea. But I swam to close and caught the top of my foot. It literally ripped the skin so far down it was bright white. As soon as I exited the pool to assess the damage the blood poured! 

We called the pool a night and the boys treated us to dinner which was exceptionally kind of them. It was a gorgeous restaurant and the food was exquisite. We had wine which was delicious. Brent however was not feeling very well from the scuba so headed back early. We were not far behind him, it had been a long day even if we hadn't really done much.

Day 77 - Phi Phi Island Thailand - Hangovers and Accomodation changes

I awoke this morning to the bed vibrating from the air conditioning, bodies scattered everywhere. Clearly everyone had a good night on the booze. My head sure hated me along with my stomach but breakfast was calling. I woke the others but George wanted to stay in bed, constant partying in her delicate situation was taking its toll. We found a restaurant with an eat as much as you like sign. The reality was eat as much as you think is safe and won't make you sick! 

Needless to say we didn't stay at breakfast long. Instead we set off in search of alternative accommodation to get out of the hell hole hostel! We found a place backing onto ours with huts, just like we wanted but without the noise of the beach front. We had a look around and they even had a pool so we handed over our money, retrieved George and settled into our new accommodation. After unpacking we headed to the pool where the boys bought beer and we chilled there until late afternoon. 

Just before sunset we headed to the beach for some food, Pad Thai was a must from the beach restaurant. We ordered a few beers and set up camp on the beach itself for sunset. The sky was utterly breathtaking all the colours of the rainbow, slowly chasing as it disappeared behind the bay edge. After a few hours all of us were overcome with sleep so headed back to the huts. I managed to read a few pages of my book until none of the words made sense anymore. 
                                                        

Day 76 - Phuket Thailand - Boats, Beers and Americans

After some breakfast and a dip in the pool which we were able to step into directly out of our room we packed up to check out. Three days to ourselves to find accommodation before coming back here to end our trip. We met our rep in reception and after about 30minutes of debate we made a plan. Phi Phi won out as we wanted to stay in a beach hut. Our rep took us to the dock and helped us buy our tickets before waving us off.

For the first time this trip it was nice to be winging it, I am not sure George was so laid back about this fact. However, being in these nice hotels we haven't really met any young people also travelling maybe it would be our chance. As I was thinking this an American guy bundled past us on the boat saying something about our backpacks. Turns out we all have the same ones which is pretty funny and turns out to be a great conversation starter. They were also winging it having stayed in nice hotels in Thailand so far. 

Upon leaving the boat we teamed up with the Americans, Shaun and Brent. They had one night booked in a hostel so we went with them to dump our bags and go search for some accommodation for ourselves. First stop food and beer. We were right on the beach but the tide was out making it not as pretty as we expected. We ordered pizza from a beach hut and drank cold beer, and another. We wandered about for a bit looking at various accommodations but the ones on the beach were loud so we decided just to stay at the hostel and sort accommodation in a hut tomorrow. 

Next we ordered some buckets, similar to what we had in Malaysia. Vodka, sprite and red bulls. We took our buckets and went and sat in the sea to drink them. The water is warm like a bath. Suddenly Brent is up and running to the beach, the tide was coming in so fast we hadn't noticed it encroaching our bags and clothes. Staying on the beach was a safer bet. Watching the sun set with the water nearly in all the way was beautiful. The beach was filling up with people, it's the place to be apparently and I was glad we were on the right side of the island to see it.

Many buckets later and some night swimming in the sea, we decided to bust some grooves at a bar on the beach before staggering back to the hostel.
                       

Day 75 - Bangkok Thailand - Pool time and travel

Neither of us made it to breakfast this morning, instead we chose to lie in before packing, checking out then heading to the pool on the roof top. We stayed there all day, reading sleeping and eating until we got picked up for our flight to Phuket. Some mad lady who's name I didn't get met us at the Airport, I am not really sure of her purpose but as quickly as she had got us to check-in she was gone.

We struggled finding the departure gate as they are doing maintenance work but eventually we did and then found the Bangkok Airways Lounge and devoured their complimentary food and drinks. I managed to upload some photos to the blog using their computers.

There were no dramas on this flight and we arrived earlier than anticipated in Phuket even though it was still 11pm. No one was there to meet us which was odd, we managed to get a lovely lady to call our people. After several phone calls we got through and they advised we were to get a taxi and they would meet us in the morning for a refund.

And this is where the fun began, picking a taxi on Song Kran. Prices were phenomenal and all the drivers looked off their faces it was picking the one who looked the least drunk. We went for an old guy who seemed nice enough and was from a registered place. We did however have to put our headphones in as he was making some weird coughing and sniffing noises for the whole 45minute journey.

The hotel was expecting us which was good as George really isn't well at the moment she is similar to how I was in Cambodia :( 
                                   

Day 74 - Bangkok Thailand - Song Kran madness

We managed to have a lie in today which was nice. The hotel is spectacular but the staff are no way near as friendly as the other hotels. We just don't seem to fit into this one with our baggy trousers, flip flops and backpacks and the staff make that quite clear. We were even shuffled into a corner for breakfast. The food was ok but the atmosphere ruined it.

After a quick pack ready for the day ahead we decided to leave the motorbike taxi behind and head to the shopping centre by foot. I remember not liking Bangkok the last time I was here with my parents and thinking maybe I was too young to appreciate it. But I still don't like it. The flyovers and sky train give it a claustrophobic feel. It's not clean and the sewage smells that emanate from every drain makes you gag. Our walk took longer than we expected but it gave us a chance to wiggle our way through some street markets which are really cool and offer some shade. By the time we reached the MBK shopping centre the air conditioning was a welcome reprieve. 

We pottered about for a while. Each floor houses a set theme, electrics on one, clothes on another like a department store but huge. On the top floor was a food court. George and I have both been suffering from upset tummies so we opted for Pizza Hut and food we knew. It was actually delicious and we ate so much we nearly exploded. We even had a few pieces of pizza to take home.

Brian met us for a coffee which was a nice chance to discuss the night before and get to know him better. We have even organised to all go for a drink when we are back as he also lives in my home town. I had my first cappuccino which was lovely :) we then headed outside to hail a motorbike taxi to take us to the hotel where we could prepare for our evenings activities. 

We got a motorbike to their hotel again for happy hour before heading out to a beautiful restaurant in the city. The food was expensive but it was worth every penny. We ordered a variety of dishes and in true Thai style shared them all. I was fit to burst again by the time we finished. Now it was time to go and celebrate Song Kran in its full force.

After a short walk and avoiding most of the people wielding water pistols we were back at the road of bars we went to last night. It was packed like sardines and there was water flying everywhere. We composed ourselves confirmed our destination and then ran. I seemed to bare the brunt of the soaking, by the time we reached the bar all of us we're drenched. It was great fun though, the aircon in the club didn't aid our drying though. 

The drinks flowed until we decided to call it a night. We made it back down the gauntlet and into a taxi before realising Brian's phone was in my dry bag from earlier. So we had to run the gauntlet back to the club they were in. Obviously we had to get another drink so we could make it back to the taxi. Really really fun night.
                                                                                                                                                   

Day 73 - Cambodia to Bangkok

We woke up early this morning and decided to go for breakfast before packing and heading to the pool for some sunbathing, the pool is beautiful and you get a great view of the hotel and restaurant, definitely could get used to this but today we were heading for Thailand.

Phalin met us for a trip to the market so we could buy some gifts and souvenirs to take home. This place is like a rabbit warren you could spend hours pottering about. We wandered around making attempts at bartering and failing, I have never been able to do it, considering I am in sales at home this may come as I shock, but I much prefer to be the other side of the sale. In the centre of the maze was a food market, selling everything from herbs to fresh fish and meat. The smell was bombarding the senses, everything all mingling together. 

After several purchases of clothes and ornaments we crossed the river to another market where we found a cafe nestled in the middle. We ordered some noodles and spring rolls aware we were running out of time. Phalin helped us to make it a takeaway before heading back to the hotel to pick up our bags and make the short drive to the airport. Upon opening our noodles we discovered it was in fact spaghetti but they had not provided us with cutlery so we had to eat it in the car with our fingers which was just making us giggle.

We checked in and discovered our airline provides a private lounge for all passengers. We stocked up on coffee and juices, before using their computers so sort through our photos and create more space on our phones. Within no time we were headed out to the plane. It was tiny with propellers and everything. Eighteen rows of pairs of seats. The flight was short yet entertaining. Some old guy felt obliged to tell me I couldn't use my iPad to read during the flight, I started off by assuring him it was switched to airplane mode. He didn't like this and proceeded to raise his voice, pointing at me and saying if we crash he would blame it on me. I was tired and frankly what I said next probably didn't aid matters. Oops. When we landed he proceeded to continue the abuse while other passengers looked on as I ignored him encroaching on my personal space. 

A young American guy eventually broke the argument and the three of us joined forces at immigration and through to getting our bags. The old man left me alone then. At arrivals we were met by our guide Lek who was extremely camp and made us feel instantly at ease. We chatted all the way to the hotel while he provided us with a language lesson as well as handy tips about the culture. The hotel was amazing, we did good again. After the introduction to Bangkok city and a detailed look at the map we thanked Lek and went up to the room. The view was of the city, flyovers, billboards, bustling.

After a quick shower we headed out to meet two family friends of Georgie. Brian and Matthew. They had advised we get a motorbike taxi as the Thais are currently celebrating the Buddist New Year of Song Kran so the roads are gridlocked, with only bikes being able to filter through. Plus we had a happy hour to get to at their hotel. What an experience that was, wind in your hair, ridiculous speeds, weaving in and out of gaps I didn't think people could even walk through. But we made it alive and feeling refreshed so can't complain.

We had a few drinks at the hotel before heading to a lovely restaurant where we stuffed our faces with the most delicious authentic Thai food. Matthew then suggested we go and see a show. The content is not suitable for this blog but if I just say we were out with two gay men, in the gay district in Thailand I am pretty sure you get an idea! Eye opening and not necessarily in a good way. But it was a good laugh. We then walked through some night markets to a street of pubs and clubs. Living out here for most of the year they both know quite a few people including the owner if the club, drinks flowed and we chatted into the early hours before resigning ourselves to the tiredness of the day and staggering back to our hotel. 
                                 
                                            

Day 72 - Siem Reap Cambodia - sunrise at the temples

Our alarms woke us at 4.30am for our meet with Phalin at 5am. We were going to return to the same place we watched the sun set last night. Due to its position, the temple becomes the foreground as the sun takes it's place as the background. We had to walk in the dark, through the entrance building and then along the large terrace and set up camp at the pond edge. It was eerie and quite. Even with hundreds of tourists piling in the silence prevailed. After around half an hour the sky started to change colour, purples, pinks and orange and the temple and it's five spires became a silhouette. The morning star sat directly above the centre spire which just added to the beauty of this spectacle.

We watched in awe for about half an hour, playing with our camera lights and effects. (Just as an add in, all the photos this trip have been on my phone, pretty impressed with the results) a new camera I think is in order for next time though there are some things I just can't capture. Darkness and low light being one. 

Once we had had our fill of photos, Phalin whisked us off to explore Angkor Wat in its full glory. She knows the routes and times to take you and the place was deserted. We got some great shots without people and could spend time looking at the carvings in detail. There are three layers to this enormous temple, the first encompasses it like a giant wall crossed with an art gallery. Each side houses formal carvings along an ornate corridor. 

Within the first layer is a grassed courtyard where huts would have been. Up a few steps your into layer two. Corridors and chambers attached together with another courtyard but this time large stone blocks cover the floor. The third layer wasn't yet open when we arrived but it meant we had time to walk around asking questions with Phalin. Soon she was shuffling us inside the barrier while everyone else queued where they were supposed to. We got up the stairs first, which meant we had an uninterrupted view, and what a view it was. You can appreciate the grandeur from up here. How powerful the king who built it must have felt. It goes on for miles. You can see the outskirting buildings of the entrance and the moat that circumferences the whole site. 

We rushed around so as not to encounter other tourists and snapped away before slowing the pace down and appreciating where we were. Within the upper layer at the centre are four enormous pools. At each outer corner is a spire and at the centre is the largest one, making up the famous five spires. The pools fill up during the wet season and were there to signify the four elements, earth, fire, water and air. Each pool must be 3m deep when full.

After the steep decent down the steps and wiggling our way through the other layers we came out on the front terrace, we walked along the central terrace and back out the front entrance before getting in the car to go back to the hotel for breakfast. 

After a shower and a sort of the bags George busted out the ever so cool bum bag which frankly is going to be a point of much amusement for me over the coming days, however useful it may turn out to be. We headed for a temple who's name I can't pronounce which was a scene in the Tomb Raider films with Angelina Jolie. I was starting to get the impression that all the temples were starting to look similar but for this one I was wrong. Ancient trees grew within the temple, on top of walls. Enveloping everything they came into contact with. Some supported the structure while others had destroyed it in an effort to lay their roots down to find water. The roots were bigger than us and the trees were utterly huge some with circumferences that must have been in excess of 15m. 

Without Phalin this temple would have been a nightmare to navigate. It's crumbling and has been totally taken over by Mother Nature. Restoration is in progress but removing the trees will cause more damage so they do with it what they can. This temple was built by the king for his mother and is beautifully ornate and a maze of rooms, chambers and pathways. Vines wrap around the outer walls, no wonder it was used in a movie. Due to its compact layout the sounds of tourist reverberate of the walls so it was not as peaceful as one would have liked.

The last temple of the day lacked the trees of the last and the ceilings had gone. However, there a was one little gem awaiting us inside. After a long walk from the entrance and through corridor after corridor, over some boulders and into a kind of tunnel there was a tiny little room with locals praying. Perfectly intact as if shrouded from the destruction outside. Incense burnt while they chanted and prayed. Phalin took us the long way back through what once would have been gardens before getting the car back to the hotel for some relaxing time by the pool. 

After sun worshiping and swimming for a few hours we showered and dressed for dinner. First stop though was a massage which was part of our package, who would have thought! Two very young Cambodia guys took us to a room where we were asked to change into some loose trousers and a top. The massage was more like an exercise class in flexibility. First they warmed our muscles then stretched us in all sorts of odd positions. I couldn't look at George as I know she would laugh and that would be it. 

Next stop the theatre, where we were served an enormous buffet, every Asian food you could think of. We were the only none asian ones there which made us stick out like a sore thumb. The show started around 7.15 and funnily enough was in English. Well we think it was, the subtitles and commentary used a very odd combination of words from the English dictionary but we seemed to get the gist. The show was the story of the creation of the temples. The fifty strong cast sung and danced with amazing costumes, special effects and props. It was spectacular if a little odd at times. 

As if we hadn't done enough today we headed back to the hotel and went for a late night swim. It's so peaceful at night and it was a relaxing way to end a magical day.
                                                                                                                     

Day 71 - Siem Reap Cambodia - Angkor Thom and Temples at sunset

 

 

George had spent the night cooling my fever with ice cold towels, I couldn't have asked for anyone nicer to aid me in my time of need. I awoke in the morning feeling weak but better. After trying to eat and failing at breakfast we met Phalin for our trip to Angkor Thom. This place is massive and the temples are mere drops in the ocean. I can't even begin to describe this place that would give it full justification but I will give it a go.

Built in the 12th century this was the capital city if the Khmer Empire. It is a plot of land covering 9km squared. On it are various temples some have been restored others in progress. Building a complex of this magnitude in the modern world would be a feat of engineering, how on earth did they build it that long ago. All the carvings are so intricate, some having been defaced when the Hindus came in and destroyed all pictures of the Buddha. 

The going was tough up and down steps in the heat obviously makes it hard work but by 11am my body had had enough, we returned to the hotel for some pool time before having a short nap ready for our afternoon adventure. We reconvened at 2.30pm and Phalin took us to a local restaurant for some lunch. George had an amazing curry while I stuck to tomato soup which I barely managed to dent. The car took us to a small temple inside Angkor Thom. Phalin had timed it perfectly, the crowds had gone.

We walked up a long boulevard lined with ancient trees offering us some shade and a gentle breeze. As if from nowhere the temple appeared shrouded in shrubbery, nestled amongst palms. All their architecture is based on the points of a compass and the trajectory of the sun. It means that you can often see from one end and out to the other. The straight lines of these buildings is fascinating and makes for a good photo. Phalin spent the whole time telling us of the history and showing us the best places for photos. 

After we had finished we headed back to the car for a short drive to Angkor Wat. This is the place most people associate with Cambodia. Unlike Angkor Thom this is a small site with one enormous temple on. The plan was to watch the sunset. Once you have crossed the entrance moat which is 200m wide and was hand dug you enter the site through a huge building which is easily the length of the Houses of Parliament. Columns 30m high line the terrace. It is absolutely huge.

We got to pray at the giant Buddha as Phalin is a Buddist, she gave us incense sticks which we could use to grant us a wish before placing them at the Buddhas feet. Then we stepped out into the open. Before us was another terrace over three hundred meters long and at the end the giant temple. Everything you see on the photos. I was a little choked it was like the first time I saw the pyramids. Utterly awe inspiring. We got to sit by the lake which gave a great reflection of the iconic five towers in the water.

As the sun dipped below the entrance which is west facing we headed back out to sit beside the moat. We did a few tourist shots holding the sun in our hands before turning to face the entrance building and watching it change colour as the sun neared the horizon. I have said it before but sunset never gets boring and with a backdrop like this makes it just perfect. 

After the short drive back to our hotel which is impressive and very posh, we showered and went for dinner in the restaurant. I stuck to western food, pizza! Georgie had a curry which was served in a pineapple. After a short Skype to my mum and dad who opened their coffee shop today, we headed to bed we had an early start tomorrow.
                             

                             

Day 70 - Vietnam to Cambodia - creative places to be sick

                                        

Well rough was an understatement when I woke up. But a brisk walk to the temple on the lake seemed to clear my throbbing head. We saw a four hundred year old turtle that used to live in the lake, his female companion still survives but as she is the only giant fresh water turtle in the world they can't find her a new mate :( 

We then visited a local cafe for some brunch and many fruit smoothies, I was starting to feel more human. I returned to the hotel while George did a lap of the lake and managed to get a nap in before Viet came to pick us up for the airport run. The driving in Vietnam is crazy, rather like Indonesia but worse. Before I knew it I had vomited all down myself causing the driver to pull over so I could finish at the side of the road. I then had to strip off to change my clothes in the middle of a motorway. And that's when I realised I was ill and not from a hangover. 

After Viet had checked us in at the airport we said our goodbyes, he has been a great guide, and I am so glad we chose to go private as I feel we had made the most of our short time in Vietnam. Upon boarding the plane my sickness returned and I went though all three bags on our row! They didn't even make me sit up for landing as I was so ill. 

Immigration was a nightmare, I could barely stand, George was a little angel filling out my visa form, while I threw up in the toilet. Thank god I had passport photos, ones of me then would have been horrific. The guy at customs was looking at me and shouting stuff as I was taking so long to fill out our arrival form, something George couldn't do for me. We were the last ones through so our bags were ready waiting. 

Phalin our guide met us at arrivals and we were shuffled into our car. She must have thought I was so rude but I couldn't speak without feeling ill. We made it to the hotel where she was so concerned she wanted to take me to hospital, bless her. I declined the welcome drink but took the ice cold towel praying check in would be quick.

As soon as we entered the room I crawled into bed the porter was asking George if I was ok. And that's were I stayed until morning. 

Day 69 - Hanoi Vietnam - Thai Chi, beaches and beer

 

Another early start this morning for Thai Chi on the upper deck, what a great way to see the sun rise, even if it was very cold. The weather here is mild, I have spent the majority so far freezing in my hoody, Georgie on the other hand barely clothed loving the increased temperature to the uk. We haven't seen the sun through the clouds yet, but it doesn't seem to change the beauty of this place. It adds an almost mystical element with clouds hiding then revealing more mountains.

After Thai Chi we headed out to a beach where we could climb to the top of the mountain for a 360 degree panoramic view of the bay. Breathtaking. It makes you feel a little insignificant with the huge magnitude of this place. After our descent and George had recovered from the humidity messing with her breathing she went for a swim. There was no way I was getting in the water it was freezing being in a bikini alone I had goosebumps. 

Suddenly we spotted some macaques coming down to take food from tourists. I got in to take some photos but stayed well back knowing from experience with these little guys that they may be cute but they have bloody large teeth and are expert muggers, soon discovered by some tourists getting two close. Mwwwwhahahaha evil laugh. 

We headed back to the boat for breakfast complete with egg station and every other food one would require, while the boat set sail for the mainland. As we pulled into the harbor the heavens opened, we were given ponchos but we still got wet, it was raining so hard you couldn't see any of the water mountains we were leaving behind.

Viet met us at the harbour for our journey home. He let us stop at a pearl farm not something that particularly interested me but George wanted to take a look. It was very interesting how they do it but the thought of an oyster dying for a pearl isn't particularly something I would like to wear round my neck however beautiful they are. Next stop was the rest place from yesterday and we bought a few keep sakes which was nice. All the products are made by disabled people or veterans of war.

We arrived back in Hanoi and Viet took us out for coffee. It was nestled in the back of a shop, through a covered courtyard steeped in history and then up two flights of stairs, providing an excellent aerial view of the lake. He ordered us egg coffee which sounded horrendous but is now my new favourite drink. It's crossed between a sweet soufflé and a latte. Delicious! I am so glad he took us there as we would never have found it otherwise. 

A short walk back to the hotel provided us with an insight into Hanoi in rush hour! OMG, no1 rule of the roads here, there are none. 2nd rule applies to pedestrians, don't look just walk, something very unknown to us westerners! But surprisingly keeping you head down with a steady pace means you don't die so I will stick to it. After a quick repack of the backpack for our evening excursion we ventured out to find the water puppet theatre.

We bought some tickets before heading to a bar to grab a drink and a sandwiche to tie us over till dinner. The theatre was tiny enough for a couple of hundred people. The show lasted about an hour and depicted the daily lives of Vietnamese water rice farmers. The music was magical and I spent most of the time watching a lady and gentleman play native string instruments. It reminded me of Vicky who was at Ketapang placing the Sepe and Violin on our porch. 

Beer was calling by the time the show had finished so we headed back to the green pepper the bar at the crossroads where you sit on a stool in the road. After a few pints we were asked to move seats as the road was getting busier and bumped into two backpackers, we got chatting about our travelling adventures which was great. They then invited us to their hostel for more drinks before we were summoned on a pub crawl. As you can guess dinner never happened. There was even a pole in one bar where I got to have a practice, it even earned me a few free drinks. George and I stumbled home around 1.30am.

                                                                                                          

Day 68 - Halong Bay Vietnam - Luxury, seafood and fishing villages

George is clearly suffering from the jet lag she was up at 5:45, milling about getting coffee. The massage last night had us both asleep quickly, it was a long eventful day. After another hot shower we ventured to breakfast and they had bacon! OMG bacon, it was delicious. After we grabbed out stuff and left our big bags in reception we met out guide for the morning Viet. Coincidently his brother is actually called Nam. He has the job of taking us to the harbour to catch our boat. 

I think he was quite excited as we are young not the normal old people he shows round. It's evident we haven't done this the backpacker way, with more students coming in the summer months. It was a four hour drive to the harbour, but we had a running commentry from Viet which was very informative. Rice paddies adorn the fields by the roadside, complete with people in conical hats tending their crops. Exactly what you see on postcards. The towns are similar to Indonesia, random hut shops selling everything from food to spare cars parts, the only difference is they are multi floored with the top balconies reflecting the romantic French architecture. 

Half way we stopped at a tourist centre selling all local crafts from pots and masonry art to tapestries that looked like paintings. I will hold off on the purchases until my return in case I find a local place. Soon we were near the bay and suddenly you can see in the distance the water mountains. As beautiful as I had imagined. We got to enjoy a beer before boarding our small boat that took is to the Hanoi Jasmine.

Not much of a looker from the outside but inside was a shock. It's beautiful. We seem to be on a boat full of couples and now I know why. The interior is plush. Our room is like a cabin from a luxury liner. Being on the bottom floor the water gentle laps under our window. We dumped our bags and went for lunch as the Hanoi Jasmine set sail. Sipping Mango juice and eating exquisite food I was a little speechless. The view outside was memorising. One of those places that will never be done justice in photographs. There are 1969 of these water mountains in Halong Bay alone. They are all different dimensions but every one as spectacular as the next, trees clinging perilously to the cliff faces while the sheer faces of rock tell a story of time.

Soon we had arrived at our first anchor point where we embarked our small boat and headed to the largest water village in the bay. It is home to nearly 600 people who live in floating houses. A small bamboo fishing boat took us round. They have dogs and cats which is odd to see, where do they walk them? There were three schools, each a hut for the three levels like back in the UK. Obviously they fish for a living with most of the children taking on the tradition and not going to higher education. 

Next we headed to a cave in one of the mountains. It wasn't as big as the fairy caves in Sarawak but still beautiful in its own right. When we got back to Hanoi Jasmine it was time for our cookery lesson. Deep fried pork spring rolls. We all got to watch and then made our own, it was really great fun. Before dinner we had time for a hot shower and change. Upstairs we ordered a few cocktails and played cards. An Ozzy couple next to us playing scrabble getting progressively more drunk which was hilarious. 

Dinner. Well where do I start. The chicken and mushroom soup tasted like my late grandmas. And then there was the seafood BBQ. Clams, prawns, squid and Sea Bass. Cooked to perfection with a choice of sauces. This is not what I was expecting but I can't moan I think we outdid ourselves. We ventured outside to review the bay at night, other boats moaned near ours. Dimly lit, very romantic I understand why we have so many honeymooners with us. I am pretty sure we should have been on the party boat a few hundred metres away, but frankly I think that May have been a bit overwhelming having lived such a simple life for two months. 

After a few more Daquaries, making friends and some games of cards the long day had taken its toll mentally so we retired to our luxurious cabin for bed.