Day 67 - Hanoi Vietnam - Chaos and Crickets

It didn't take long to get ready this morning yesterday's organisation had paid off. The taxi was even early which was a shocker out here in Malaysia. And that's where the stress free morning ended! I had spent my last money on a t-shirt for Jules. Cashpoint time at the airport to pay the driver, unsuccessful twice, had to resort to my bank card from home oopsie. 

The next stress came in the form of finding out my flight was half an hour earlier than on my itinerary. Ok dad I can hear you saying now how I should of checked it and I am going to annoy you more in that frankly I couldn't really be bothered. So take great satisfaction in telling me I told you so hehehehe

Luckily I know the airport well so finding my way to the gate was a breeze, I even had time to write some blog. The journey was uneventful well as far as I was aware I fell asleep before takeoff and woke as we touched down, anything could have happened I was dead to the world.

I located our meeting point and settled down to text George. After about half an hour I was starting to get nervy as I had no response. I decided to go in search and by chance found her on the lower floor making friends with people, typical George. I called to her and then ran down the stairs and towards her, kind of like a slow motion movie scene. It was great to see her. Now my holiday could begin. We muddled about before heading to the gate. The boarding time came and went until eventually we got on. It was then quite sometime before we set off, not sure how long as I fell asleep. 

Smells of food wafting down the isle woke me and I tucked into a sandwiche before starting a film. After some turbulence we landed in Hanoi Vietnam. First impressions, looks pretty much the same as Borneo landscape wise. A lovely girl Huang greeted us at the airport her English was exceptional, she joined us in our taxi to get us to the hotel, giving us a guided tour along the way.

It was soon evident although it has a similar landscape the city itself has been heavily influenced by French architecture, mixed with some Chinese. Thus making it quite beautiful if a little rough around the edges. Soon we were dead Central arriving at our hotel. We were greeted with cold pineapple green tea by reception while Huang recommended good places to spend our afternoon and to have dinner. We ventured to our room to partially unpack and repack for tomorrow's adventure before darting out into the unknown.

When I said Indonesia had lots of motorbikes it was a mere drop in the ocean compared to here. Oh my dear lord!! And they are out to kill you. Huang had advised just to keep walking don't wait. Easier said than done. After nearly being run down by a taxi having dodged 100 bikes I was ready for a beer, we found a street corner that had other backpackers and settled down for a beer. 71p result. After two pints we headed to a local restaurant and persuaded the menu.

Crickets in a lemon sauce, done, catfish rolls, done, pork balls and rice, perfect. Never thought I would eat crickets but hey we are in Vietnam and it's better than dog, in fact they are really tasty! In fact all the food was delicious but paying wasn't as simple. They didn't take US dollars as confirmed before we started. After some gentle disagreements we paid half and half and legged it. 

The streets were coming alive and the sun was setting, adding a warmth of colour to the buildings. The streets are lined with trees and stalls stick out into the road selling everything you could ever want. Negotiating the streets was relatively easy providing you get the exact spelling right one wrong letter and your going the wrong way. We had time to go to a local cathedral, quite an odd thing to see here very out of place. A service was going on but the front doors open, the interior was enormous, and beautifully ornate unlike the gothic outside which was worn dirty from years of city life. 

Back at the hotel I had a hot shower, so hot I nearly burnt myself. Nice and clean it was time for a massage before bed. First day in Vietnam complete and I survived.
                                                                                                          

Day 66 - Matang Borneo - Rosey still recognises me :)

             

The sun got me up today, which lets be honest I can't moan at. I wrapped myself in my sheet, grabbed a coffee and watched the sun come over the mountains taking in the beauty of this fantastic country. I caught up on yesterday's blog until it was time to get ready for work. Kristi and I walked while Dom got on his bike. The sky was beautiful and the clouds hovered over the mountains, not a bad view for a walk to work. 

Upon our arrival I popped my head in to see Rosey. Although I got wind that she has been a little stressed of late it seems the hair on her arm has made good progress in growing back. She recognised me as soon as she saw me and came swinging over from the far side and popped her hand out for me (for those that may not read as far back I was her gibbon buddy at Matang, this is not normal procedure at the centre who has a strict no contact policy) I gave it a quick shake and left her be not wanting to make it hard for me to say goodbye a second time.

We started on the Orangs and as usual Kristi and I teamed up and had the cages done in record time. I got to see the girls Shirley, Sandy and Maria in their new enclosures which was great. It was Shirley's turn to go out today and there seems to be a love story unfolding. Aman the large dominant male at the centre has taken quite a fancy to this older, fatter Orang (apparently that's how they like their females) and Shirley is very keen to show him from behind the bars exactly what he is missing out on. It's lovely to watch and great to see Aman have some interaction with another Orang.

After we finished we headed over to Leo's house to replant some Jalapeño plants which are outgrowing their current pots. It was just nice to be back at Matang where it all started milling about like it was home. After writing a quick note to Tash and Leo as they were both in the forest with the babies, to say goodbye we headed back to the house. 

I packed up the last of my things and left TSL toy with a note for a special person. You know who you are ;) we arrived at Basaga where I demolished a Spag Bol and Garlic bread before retiring to my room to read my book as it was raining outside. We were meant to go for dinner but everyone was a bit tired, Kristi then advised she wouldn't be coming tonight so goodbyes were over FB, convenient as she hates them so much hahaha

I did a bit of Skype then headed for a drink, I got chatting with John the owner and his family and he kindly bought me dinner and another drink, trying to persuade me to go to Monkee Bar. However, after Mel missed her flight last time for that reason I thought it best to decline. I headed to reception to book my 4am taxi and get a t-shirt for Jules as she forgot. As I entered Chrisitna (Alvins wife from the tour last year) came bounding up to me for a hug. I recognised her straight away and am surprised with the amount of people she sees that she recognised me. Alvin wasn't far behind and I stayed and chatted with them for a while. 

I must have said this a thousand times in this blog but it was a perfect ending to this trip. There really are some fantastic people here both natives and westerners doing what they can to make a difference to the wildlife here. To stay and help would be an honour. It won't be long till I am back you have my word! But for now my travels continue with my bestie Georgie, first stop Vietnam.
                                   

Day 65 - Basaga Kuching - Productivity was the order of the day

I awoke early as Rebecca left for her plane, finally some alone time with a room to myself. I returned to sleep but soon woke up again and headed to breakfast. It's much cooler here which I have no complaints about they guys were right when they said it was compared to Ketapang but you don't realise until your back. After two coffees and some scrambled egg and beans I was ready to start my day and I had a list. First and formost repack. 

My backpack has become a jumble over the past few days of travel. I also left a bag at Basaga of clothes unsuitable for Ketapang along with extra mosquito sprays and shower gels. It was now time to make it all squeeze back in my bag in an orderly easily findable manner. For those that know me it was a relaxing experience. Once finished I headed outside to sit by the pool and catch up on my neglected blog.

The coffee had done wonders to bring my brain to life and soon I was emersed in it, typing away before heading to the in house computer to upload the photos. The internet is quick here so within the hour I had completed the task. I even got a chance to look through my photos deleting ones that didn't look great blown up on a screen, giving me valuable space for the next leg of the journey.

After an immensely productive morning my tummy was grumbling but having been upset for a few days I stuck to salad which was a mountain and delicious. After downloading a few additional books it's was time for me and Kristi to head to Matang. Leo had kindly offered to let me stay at the facilitators house tonight with a view to work as requested by me tomorrow. 

The house is similar to Matang, tiled floors and a beautiful view of the mountains about a 10 minute walk from the centre. I settle into the guest room, popped some washing in the machine and then Kristi and I popped a DVD on. Twenty minutes in though it started to play up so we switched to another one. It took about three hours to get through as I dyed Kristis hair I the process. Never would have put a girls night in and Kristi in the same sentence but it was really nice. 

After the film we joined Dom outside enjoying the evening breeze. Eventually I decided to cook them dinner as it was getting late. We chatted a lot about the Orangs and Dom said we could join him tomorrow to go and work with them. Awesome! 

Day 64 - Basaga Kuching - Bamboo Tattoo Take Two

 
At 8am my alarm awoke me from my drunken slumber. My head was banging and I felt more than a little ill. I headed to breakfast to line my tummy. At 9.30 Krisit kindly dropped me, Becs and Kerry at the Tattoo place. It was then I realised last nights antics were a bad Idea. 

On the table I could see the design I had chosen over a month ago but slightly different. Ernest's had redesigned it to fit under my current one. I was so happy the decision had been made as I had been fretting over its location for a few days. And frankly I was in no position to be making any kind of decision in my hungover state. After about an hours wait it was time. It took a few attempts and size changes to get right before he started. 

OMG the pain. Being in a more painful place and hungover mean I had lost the ability to control it. It was certainly not this painful last time. After a few hours of being hammered with a needle attached to bamboo it was complete and not a moment to soon. There were points where it was obvious how painful it was and he took great pleasure in making up Stories I could tell my friends as to why it wasn't finished. It made me laugh at least.

The finished result however was beautiful. I am so pleased with it and will forever be a reminder of this wonderful experience and the people I shared it with. If you were wondering its a slow loris after the house I stayed in at Matang. It is also similar to the one Mel had last month. An agreement we made with each other. 

We all returned to Basaga where we grouped with some of the remaining Matang lot and had some lunch. We said a few more goodbyes to people and then I had to sleep. I wasted the afternoon in bed before getting up and going for dinner. Becs, Aleta, Jaye and Kristi are still here so we thought we would go to a restaurant in town. Junk. It's a brilliant little place serving western food. It's like a labyrinth of rooms filled with random objects from a vintage dentist chair to bottles washed up from the sea. The food was also great.

Full and tired we headed straight to bed.
                                                                                                      

Day 63 - Basaga Kuching - Monkee Bar Madness

                                                                                                                
...so it's 10am, I have had broken sleep over the last 24hrs. My brain is not really functioning and working in autopilot. I head to the beauty salon to make myself feel human. After a full body overhaul it was time for some lunch. I ordered chips because I am a bit over rice. The car coma hit so I went for a sleep.

I woke up at 5pm, had a hot clean shower and straightened my hair. First time in 2months it felt amazing! A dash of makeup and I felt human, although it will take some getting used to in the mirror. We all regrouped and head to an Indian restaurant in town. The food was to die for. Especially the chicken. No bones just succulent meat. How I have missed meat these past few months. I was absolutely stuffed, but the Monkee Bar awaited us.

It started off nice and civilised but before long it was carnage. Shots were the downfall. We were all busting out the new routine much to the amusement of the locals who I think were laughing at us not with us. Then came the dancing on the bar stools, which I am pretty sure I fell off a few times. Eventually Kerry wanted to find karaoke. I am not sure any of us realised it was 2am, needless to say we didn't find any so made our way on foot back to Basaga. Becs and I crawled into our room at about 3am. This did not bode well for tomorrow's morning appointment! 

Day 62 - On the move - 24hrs of Transport

It was an early start this morning as we had to have our bags ready at 6.30 so they could take them to the dock, they then came back to collect us. I was sad to be leaving Ketapang. This place has been my home for three weeks, the locals make you feel so welcome and the customs and traditions for etiquette should be installed at home. These things include when shaking someone's hand you then put your hand to your heart afterwards. If someone is sat on the floor which is most of the time here, and someone walks past it is customary for them to lower their body and arm below that of the persons heart on the floor. 

After a short drive taking in the last of the sights and smells of this wonderful place we arrived at the port. The same early morning hustle and bustle greeted us. It wasn't nearly as daunting as the journey here and I was looking forward to sitting up on the deck. After a short snooze I headed out onto deck for a few hours before returning to the blissful cold of the air conditioned cabin. After 8 hours we were pulling into Pontianak port. We past a massive barge carrying half a forest, the result of deforestation and bringing home the reality of why we are here. 

Upon docking the madness ensued. Bags being launched off the boat scrambling to seize your own. We were then whisked into our waiting taxis and headed for a hotel where we would sit in reception until it was time for the bus. Pontianak doesn't have the same feel as Ketapang, there is an air of unease. I am not sure I would walk alone at night round here like I would there. A few scantily clad woman were in and out of the lift in the hotel it was a little bit seedy to say the least but it was a base for a few hours. We ventured out to Pizza Hut where I overdosed on carbs and dairy till I felt sick. Although we have been fed well I haven't felt full like this for a month. 

After another few hours and a quick FaceTime to the parents it was time to head to the bus station. The taxi driver put on the Indonesian rave songs and we all danced in the back seat creating what we have affectionately named the bridge building routine. Moves based on the tools we have been using. It is hilarious and I would be happy to demonstrate upon my return home :) 

We had time for a quick fluid refill at the bus station before boarding our luxury bus. The seats were massive we were each given a pillow and blanket like on a plane. I settled down and within seconds I was asleep. I slept on and off for the next few hours until I was awoken by Kristi at the boarder. It was 5am I barely knew my arse from my elbow. As we queued we were told that when the gates opened we had to run. There were hundreds of people and the thought was quite daunting in my current state. It didn't help it was chucking it down so the ground was slippery. The time came and it was every man for themselves. We pushed and shoved and ran like our lives depended on it. It paid off and we were front of the queue.

After another few hours and some more sleep we arrived back in Kuching where Leo was there to collect us and return us to Basaga. It was now 10am so I will continue this day on the next post.....
                                                                                                                                    

Day 61 - Ketapang Borneo - Final day and Facials

Annoyingly I woke up this morning ready for work, I even got up and had breakfast before realising it was my day off. So I went back to bed and snoozed till 10am. When I got up everyone was milling about getting easy to go to the tailors to pick up our additional trousers. Some were off to get their hair done and I decided it was high time for a wax. Unfortunately this clearly isn't something that's common in Ketapang so I opted for a facial instead.

It was epic. After an hour and a half of lotions and potions, scraping and masks I was done. I was so relaxed but this was to be ruined as I hadn't taken enough money so had to run back to the house. On my way back to the salon I spotted Sarah walking aimlessly trying to find the others who had gone to lunch so said if she wanted to walk with me we would then go and find the others.

By the time we made it to lunch the others were all finished, we were roasting and drank our ice jeruks in one. We ordered and sat with Kristi and Aleta who stayed behind. I had fried rice which was delicious. Afterwards I headed to the cafe to upload some photos to the blog. Unfortunately half of the teenage population of Ketapang were already there busily playing games on the net. This made the connection very slow and I managed one days worth of photos in just under an hour. I have up and returned to the house.

I spent the rest of the afternoon packing and milling about until dinner. I tried on my new trousers which I love and will come in useful for my next part of the adventure in Thailand. We went back to the restaurant we went to on the first night which was a perfect ending the the trip. Noel gave out presents to each of us to thank us for the work we have done. Each of was given something that reminded them of us. I got some fridge magnets in the shape of chillis for my successful magnum challenge win. The presents were so thoughtful, I got a bit emotional. 
                                     

Day 60 - Ketapang Borneo - Venetian Blinds for a Slow Loris

The final day. A chance to get more photos on the way to work. I am not so sure I will miss the bus journey it's a little bumpy I much prefer the bike. I will miss the houses we pass where children always wave and say hello, the random shops and the sense of community these people have. The smells that change from morning to evening and of course the high risk of death by erratic scooter drivers with half their family on board.

Upon our arrival at work we still had jobs to do, some went to clean the van, others the logistics and all the tools. I got to go with Noël to help fix a Venetian blind for a slow loris. Oh yes you read that right. They have a slow loris at the centre called Uut. He is caged under a giant water tank. Until he can be tagged and released he has a lovely little place to reside in the meantime. Unfortunately the sun rises directly into his cage and being nocturnal he likes to sleep during the day. Therefore there is a Venetian blind that can be pulled up at night and released in the early hours of the morning by the night staff. It involved a little climb up a ladder and threading some rope through. Then we had to play around with the weight of the bottom so it would fall.

After this we spent a few hours waiting around, Kristi made herself at home in a wheelbarrow and we all chatted, told jokes and riddles, drew in the sand. We were waiting for Pinky an adult female Orang to be released from Quarantine into the big socialisation cages after having have some dental work done. Like Shirley from Matang she is a big girl and took a long time to go under, hence the two hour wait.

It was great to see her go in, even if she did still look a bit high from the sedation. Just as we were due to leave the heavens opened and cooled us all down a treat. I made my way to the Island to help Noel tighten the last nuts and bolts on the bridges. He went back to get tools so I was on the island on my own. A perfect chance to enjoy the peace and quiet and reflect on the time I have been here and all the incredible achievements our group has made this month. Eventually Noel joined me and we set to work. We shared the workload and soon had all the bolts tighten and hopefully Orang proof. The call of prayer signaled our departure back to the centre with a little detour to the new feeding platform which I hadn't yet seen. Full marks to the guys who built that it's literally in the middle of the jungle with no space around it! 

We packed away and said our goodbyes to the centre and made our way home. Dinner was at a lovely seafood restaurant where we ordered half the menu and all tucked in. Some of the best food so far. We were accompanied by Ibu the lady who cooks for us and her family. Christine, Iyu and Adi the vets as well as Spanish Paloma the researcher. It was a a great atmosphere and enabled us to say all our goodbyes. It won't be for long I hope to be out here before the years out.
                                                                                                         
                            

Day 59 - Ketapang Borneo - Hery knocks up three hoes for the threesome, and a chance to see the baby orangs

I felt much better today, the aches have disappeared and my energy has returned. We made a slight detour on the way to work last the old centre before they bought the one they are in now. It's very central to the town within a small settlement with houses either side. The big cages you have seen before were squeezed into an area about 20 x 30m. All the Orangs at the centre were squeezed in this area, with a field out the back for the exercise of the youngsters. What an amazing transformation to the 60hectare area the centre has now. Karmele truly is an amazing woman to have pushed so hard to improve their conditions in only a few years in a country where things happen at such a slow pace.

We headed off to work where I was back to being a hoe with the hoes. Hery one of the locals knocked up some new handles for our near broken hoes. It's so clever how they do this so quickly. It was good to be back on the farm. I dug a whole new trench just in time for lunch. Half way through some of the others left for some enrichment but Kristi and I battled on, when we stopped for a break we managed to catch a glimpse of some wild macaques. Just one of the awesome things you get to see working here :) They were literally jumping from one tree and hoping they caught the one below it was a great way to spend a short break. By the time I finished I was dripping with sweat but the achievement was worth it. 

Unfortunately I think I slightly overdid it on the farm as I felt a bit sick by the time I sat down to lunch and couldn't really stomach all of it. I even had to have a little snooze.

After lunch I was on enrichment on my own, so I set up a pile of all the things I needed, made myself comfy and popped an episode of Breaking Bad on. I was stuffing cereal boxes with sandust, peanuts and popcorn, then sealing them with tape. Once I had made twelve the others joined me and we headed out to baby school. We got to watch them for a good half an hour. It was amazing. We were so close and were opening their enrichment with such excitement, their little faces when they discovered the sawdust and threw it at each other was so cute. Some were hanging from the trees whacking the others over head with the empty boxes others were sat quietly picking through the sawdust. 

A few of the were curious of the weird people wielding cameras and you had to keep a constant eye out for invaders from all angles, they are very clever and quick when they want to be. It's incredible to think one day these lucky little ones that got a second chance may one day have the chance to live wild again. The babysitters do a great job teaching them all the skills they need for their future.

Soon it was time to go, we left the babies covered in sawdust and headed back to the island to carry the rest of the wood back. What a wonderful afternoon on our penultimate day at work. We arrived home and had our dinner which was noodles then all sat chattering, I retired to my room to watch the rest of Breaking Bad before carrying on with book 14. It was so warm sleep didn't come quickly and kept me awake for some time.