Day 71 - Siem Reap Cambodia - Angkor Thom and Temples at sunset

 

 

George had spent the night cooling my fever with ice cold towels, I couldn't have asked for anyone nicer to aid me in my time of need. I awoke in the morning feeling weak but better. After trying to eat and failing at breakfast we met Phalin for our trip to Angkor Thom. This place is massive and the temples are mere drops in the ocean. I can't even begin to describe this place that would give it full justification but I will give it a go.

Built in the 12th century this was the capital city if the Khmer Empire. It is a plot of land covering 9km squared. On it are various temples some have been restored others in progress. Building a complex of this magnitude in the modern world would be a feat of engineering, how on earth did they build it that long ago. All the carvings are so intricate, some having been defaced when the Hindus came in and destroyed all pictures of the Buddha. 

The going was tough up and down steps in the heat obviously makes it hard work but by 11am my body had had enough, we returned to the hotel for some pool time before having a short nap ready for our afternoon adventure. We reconvened at 2.30pm and Phalin took us to a local restaurant for some lunch. George had an amazing curry while I stuck to tomato soup which I barely managed to dent. The car took us to a small temple inside Angkor Thom. Phalin had timed it perfectly, the crowds had gone.

We walked up a long boulevard lined with ancient trees offering us some shade and a gentle breeze. As if from nowhere the temple appeared shrouded in shrubbery, nestled amongst palms. All their architecture is based on the points of a compass and the trajectory of the sun. It means that you can often see from one end and out to the other. The straight lines of these buildings is fascinating and makes for a good photo. Phalin spent the whole time telling us of the history and showing us the best places for photos. 

After we had finished we headed back to the car for a short drive to Angkor Wat. This is the place most people associate with Cambodia. Unlike Angkor Thom this is a small site with one enormous temple on. The plan was to watch the sunset. Once you have crossed the entrance moat which is 200m wide and was hand dug you enter the site through a huge building which is easily the length of the Houses of Parliament. Columns 30m high line the terrace. It is absolutely huge.

We got to pray at the giant Buddha as Phalin is a Buddist, she gave us incense sticks which we could use to grant us a wish before placing them at the Buddhas feet. Then we stepped out into the open. Before us was another terrace over three hundred meters long and at the end the giant temple. Everything you see on the photos. I was a little choked it was like the first time I saw the pyramids. Utterly awe inspiring. We got to sit by the lake which gave a great reflection of the iconic five towers in the water.

As the sun dipped below the entrance which is west facing we headed back out to sit beside the moat. We did a few tourist shots holding the sun in our hands before turning to face the entrance building and watching it change colour as the sun neared the horizon. I have said it before but sunset never gets boring and with a backdrop like this makes it just perfect. 

After the short drive back to our hotel which is impressive and very posh, we showered and went for dinner in the restaurant. I stuck to western food, pizza! Georgie had a curry which was served in a pineapple. After a short Skype to my mum and dad who opened their coffee shop today, we headed to bed we had an early start tomorrow.
                             

                             

Day 70 - Vietnam to Cambodia - creative places to be sick

                                        

Well rough was an understatement when I woke up. But a brisk walk to the temple on the lake seemed to clear my throbbing head. We saw a four hundred year old turtle that used to live in the lake, his female companion still survives but as she is the only giant fresh water turtle in the world they can't find her a new mate :( 

We then visited a local cafe for some brunch and many fruit smoothies, I was starting to feel more human. I returned to the hotel while George did a lap of the lake and managed to get a nap in before Viet came to pick us up for the airport run. The driving in Vietnam is crazy, rather like Indonesia but worse. Before I knew it I had vomited all down myself causing the driver to pull over so I could finish at the side of the road. I then had to strip off to change my clothes in the middle of a motorway. And that's when I realised I was ill and not from a hangover. 

After Viet had checked us in at the airport we said our goodbyes, he has been a great guide, and I am so glad we chose to go private as I feel we had made the most of our short time in Vietnam. Upon boarding the plane my sickness returned and I went though all three bags on our row! They didn't even make me sit up for landing as I was so ill. 

Immigration was a nightmare, I could barely stand, George was a little angel filling out my visa form, while I threw up in the toilet. Thank god I had passport photos, ones of me then would have been horrific. The guy at customs was looking at me and shouting stuff as I was taking so long to fill out our arrival form, something George couldn't do for me. We were the last ones through so our bags were ready waiting. 

Phalin our guide met us at arrivals and we were shuffled into our car. She must have thought I was so rude but I couldn't speak without feeling ill. We made it to the hotel where she was so concerned she wanted to take me to hospital, bless her. I declined the welcome drink but took the ice cold towel praying check in would be quick.

As soon as we entered the room I crawled into bed the porter was asking George if I was ok. And that's were I stayed until morning. 

Day 69 - Hanoi Vietnam - Thai Chi, beaches and beer

 

Another early start this morning for Thai Chi on the upper deck, what a great way to see the sun rise, even if it was very cold. The weather here is mild, I have spent the majority so far freezing in my hoody, Georgie on the other hand barely clothed loving the increased temperature to the uk. We haven't seen the sun through the clouds yet, but it doesn't seem to change the beauty of this place. It adds an almost mystical element with clouds hiding then revealing more mountains.

After Thai Chi we headed out to a beach where we could climb to the top of the mountain for a 360 degree panoramic view of the bay. Breathtaking. It makes you feel a little insignificant with the huge magnitude of this place. After our descent and George had recovered from the humidity messing with her breathing she went for a swim. There was no way I was getting in the water it was freezing being in a bikini alone I had goosebumps. 

Suddenly we spotted some macaques coming down to take food from tourists. I got in to take some photos but stayed well back knowing from experience with these little guys that they may be cute but they have bloody large teeth and are expert muggers, soon discovered by some tourists getting two close. Mwwwwhahahaha evil laugh. 

We headed back to the boat for breakfast complete with egg station and every other food one would require, while the boat set sail for the mainland. As we pulled into the harbor the heavens opened, we were given ponchos but we still got wet, it was raining so hard you couldn't see any of the water mountains we were leaving behind.

Viet met us at the harbour for our journey home. He let us stop at a pearl farm not something that particularly interested me but George wanted to take a look. It was very interesting how they do it but the thought of an oyster dying for a pearl isn't particularly something I would like to wear round my neck however beautiful they are. Next stop was the rest place from yesterday and we bought a few keep sakes which was nice. All the products are made by disabled people or veterans of war.

We arrived back in Hanoi and Viet took us out for coffee. It was nestled in the back of a shop, through a covered courtyard steeped in history and then up two flights of stairs, providing an excellent aerial view of the lake. He ordered us egg coffee which sounded horrendous but is now my new favourite drink. It's crossed between a sweet soufflé and a latte. Delicious! I am so glad he took us there as we would never have found it otherwise. 

A short walk back to the hotel provided us with an insight into Hanoi in rush hour! OMG, no1 rule of the roads here, there are none. 2nd rule applies to pedestrians, don't look just walk, something very unknown to us westerners! But surprisingly keeping you head down with a steady pace means you don't die so I will stick to it. After a quick repack of the backpack for our evening excursion we ventured out to find the water puppet theatre.

We bought some tickets before heading to a bar to grab a drink and a sandwiche to tie us over till dinner. The theatre was tiny enough for a couple of hundred people. The show lasted about an hour and depicted the daily lives of Vietnamese water rice farmers. The music was magical and I spent most of the time watching a lady and gentleman play native string instruments. It reminded me of Vicky who was at Ketapang placing the Sepe and Violin on our porch. 

Beer was calling by the time the show had finished so we headed back to the green pepper the bar at the crossroads where you sit on a stool in the road. After a few pints we were asked to move seats as the road was getting busier and bumped into two backpackers, we got chatting about our travelling adventures which was great. They then invited us to their hostel for more drinks before we were summoned on a pub crawl. As you can guess dinner never happened. There was even a pole in one bar where I got to have a practice, it even earned me a few free drinks. George and I stumbled home around 1.30am.

                                                                                                          

Day 68 - Halong Bay Vietnam - Luxury, seafood and fishing villages

George is clearly suffering from the jet lag she was up at 5:45, milling about getting coffee. The massage last night had us both asleep quickly, it was a long eventful day. After another hot shower we ventured to breakfast and they had bacon! OMG bacon, it was delicious. After we grabbed out stuff and left our big bags in reception we met out guide for the morning Viet. Coincidently his brother is actually called Nam. He has the job of taking us to the harbour to catch our boat. 

I think he was quite excited as we are young not the normal old people he shows round. It's evident we haven't done this the backpacker way, with more students coming in the summer months. It was a four hour drive to the harbour, but we had a running commentry from Viet which was very informative. Rice paddies adorn the fields by the roadside, complete with people in conical hats tending their crops. Exactly what you see on postcards. The towns are similar to Indonesia, random hut shops selling everything from food to spare cars parts, the only difference is they are multi floored with the top balconies reflecting the romantic French architecture. 

Half way we stopped at a tourist centre selling all local crafts from pots and masonry art to tapestries that looked like paintings. I will hold off on the purchases until my return in case I find a local place. Soon we were near the bay and suddenly you can see in the distance the water mountains. As beautiful as I had imagined. We got to enjoy a beer before boarding our small boat that took is to the Hanoi Jasmine.

Not much of a looker from the outside but inside was a shock. It's beautiful. We seem to be on a boat full of couples and now I know why. The interior is plush. Our room is like a cabin from a luxury liner. Being on the bottom floor the water gentle laps under our window. We dumped our bags and went for lunch as the Hanoi Jasmine set sail. Sipping Mango juice and eating exquisite food I was a little speechless. The view outside was memorising. One of those places that will never be done justice in photographs. There are 1969 of these water mountains in Halong Bay alone. They are all different dimensions but every one as spectacular as the next, trees clinging perilously to the cliff faces while the sheer faces of rock tell a story of time.

Soon we had arrived at our first anchor point where we embarked our small boat and headed to the largest water village in the bay. It is home to nearly 600 people who live in floating houses. A small bamboo fishing boat took us round. They have dogs and cats which is odd to see, where do they walk them? There were three schools, each a hut for the three levels like back in the UK. Obviously they fish for a living with most of the children taking on the tradition and not going to higher education. 

Next we headed to a cave in one of the mountains. It wasn't as big as the fairy caves in Sarawak but still beautiful in its own right. When we got back to Hanoi Jasmine it was time for our cookery lesson. Deep fried pork spring rolls. We all got to watch and then made our own, it was really great fun. Before dinner we had time for a hot shower and change. Upstairs we ordered a few cocktails and played cards. An Ozzy couple next to us playing scrabble getting progressively more drunk which was hilarious. 

Dinner. Well where do I start. The chicken and mushroom soup tasted like my late grandmas. And then there was the seafood BBQ. Clams, prawns, squid and Sea Bass. Cooked to perfection with a choice of sauces. This is not what I was expecting but I can't moan I think we outdid ourselves. We ventured outside to review the bay at night, other boats moaned near ours. Dimly lit, very romantic I understand why we have so many honeymooners with us. I am pretty sure we should have been on the party boat a few hundred metres away, but frankly I think that May have been a bit overwhelming having lived such a simple life for two months. 

After a few more Daquaries, making friends and some games of cards the long day had taken its toll mentally so we retired to our luxurious cabin for bed.
                                                                                                                

Day 67 - Hanoi Vietnam - Chaos and Crickets

It didn't take long to get ready this morning yesterday's organisation had paid off. The taxi was even early which was a shocker out here in Malaysia. And that's where the stress free morning ended! I had spent my last money on a t-shirt for Jules. Cashpoint time at the airport to pay the driver, unsuccessful twice, had to resort to my bank card from home oopsie. 

The next stress came in the form of finding out my flight was half an hour earlier than on my itinerary. Ok dad I can hear you saying now how I should of checked it and I am going to annoy you more in that frankly I couldn't really be bothered. So take great satisfaction in telling me I told you so hehehehe

Luckily I know the airport well so finding my way to the gate was a breeze, I even had time to write some blog. The journey was uneventful well as far as I was aware I fell asleep before takeoff and woke as we touched down, anything could have happened I was dead to the world.

I located our meeting point and settled down to text George. After about half an hour I was starting to get nervy as I had no response. I decided to go in search and by chance found her on the lower floor making friends with people, typical George. I called to her and then ran down the stairs and towards her, kind of like a slow motion movie scene. It was great to see her. Now my holiday could begin. We muddled about before heading to the gate. The boarding time came and went until eventually we got on. It was then quite sometime before we set off, not sure how long as I fell asleep. 

Smells of food wafting down the isle woke me and I tucked into a sandwiche before starting a film. After some turbulence we landed in Hanoi Vietnam. First impressions, looks pretty much the same as Borneo landscape wise. A lovely girl Huang greeted us at the airport her English was exceptional, she joined us in our taxi to get us to the hotel, giving us a guided tour along the way.

It was soon evident although it has a similar landscape the city itself has been heavily influenced by French architecture, mixed with some Chinese. Thus making it quite beautiful if a little rough around the edges. Soon we were dead Central arriving at our hotel. We were greeted with cold pineapple green tea by reception while Huang recommended good places to spend our afternoon and to have dinner. We ventured to our room to partially unpack and repack for tomorrow's adventure before darting out into the unknown.

When I said Indonesia had lots of motorbikes it was a mere drop in the ocean compared to here. Oh my dear lord!! And they are out to kill you. Huang had advised just to keep walking don't wait. Easier said than done. After nearly being run down by a taxi having dodged 100 bikes I was ready for a beer, we found a street corner that had other backpackers and settled down for a beer. 71p result. After two pints we headed to a local restaurant and persuaded the menu.

Crickets in a lemon sauce, done, catfish rolls, done, pork balls and rice, perfect. Never thought I would eat crickets but hey we are in Vietnam and it's better than dog, in fact they are really tasty! In fact all the food was delicious but paying wasn't as simple. They didn't take US dollars as confirmed before we started. After some gentle disagreements we paid half and half and legged it. 

The streets were coming alive and the sun was setting, adding a warmth of colour to the buildings. The streets are lined with trees and stalls stick out into the road selling everything you could ever want. Negotiating the streets was relatively easy providing you get the exact spelling right one wrong letter and your going the wrong way. We had time to go to a local cathedral, quite an odd thing to see here very out of place. A service was going on but the front doors open, the interior was enormous, and beautifully ornate unlike the gothic outside which was worn dirty from years of city life. 

Back at the hotel I had a hot shower, so hot I nearly burnt myself. Nice and clean it was time for a massage before bed. First day in Vietnam complete and I survived.
                                                                                                          

Day 66 - Matang Borneo - Rosey still recognises me :)

             

The sun got me up today, which lets be honest I can't moan at. I wrapped myself in my sheet, grabbed a coffee and watched the sun come over the mountains taking in the beauty of this fantastic country. I caught up on yesterday's blog until it was time to get ready for work. Kristi and I walked while Dom got on his bike. The sky was beautiful and the clouds hovered over the mountains, not a bad view for a walk to work. 

Upon our arrival I popped my head in to see Rosey. Although I got wind that she has been a little stressed of late it seems the hair on her arm has made good progress in growing back. She recognised me as soon as she saw me and came swinging over from the far side and popped her hand out for me (for those that may not read as far back I was her gibbon buddy at Matang, this is not normal procedure at the centre who has a strict no contact policy) I gave it a quick shake and left her be not wanting to make it hard for me to say goodbye a second time.

We started on the Orangs and as usual Kristi and I teamed up and had the cages done in record time. I got to see the girls Shirley, Sandy and Maria in their new enclosures which was great. It was Shirley's turn to go out today and there seems to be a love story unfolding. Aman the large dominant male at the centre has taken quite a fancy to this older, fatter Orang (apparently that's how they like their females) and Shirley is very keen to show him from behind the bars exactly what he is missing out on. It's lovely to watch and great to see Aman have some interaction with another Orang.

After we finished we headed over to Leo's house to replant some Jalapeño plants which are outgrowing their current pots. It was just nice to be back at Matang where it all started milling about like it was home. After writing a quick note to Tash and Leo as they were both in the forest with the babies, to say goodbye we headed back to the house. 

I packed up the last of my things and left TSL toy with a note for a special person. You know who you are ;) we arrived at Basaga where I demolished a Spag Bol and Garlic bread before retiring to my room to read my book as it was raining outside. We were meant to go for dinner but everyone was a bit tired, Kristi then advised she wouldn't be coming tonight so goodbyes were over FB, convenient as she hates them so much hahaha

I did a bit of Skype then headed for a drink, I got chatting with John the owner and his family and he kindly bought me dinner and another drink, trying to persuade me to go to Monkee Bar. However, after Mel missed her flight last time for that reason I thought it best to decline. I headed to reception to book my 4am taxi and get a t-shirt for Jules as she forgot. As I entered Chrisitna (Alvins wife from the tour last year) came bounding up to me for a hug. I recognised her straight away and am surprised with the amount of people she sees that she recognised me. Alvin wasn't far behind and I stayed and chatted with them for a while. 

I must have said this a thousand times in this blog but it was a perfect ending to this trip. There really are some fantastic people here both natives and westerners doing what they can to make a difference to the wildlife here. To stay and help would be an honour. It won't be long till I am back you have my word! But for now my travels continue with my bestie Georgie, first stop Vietnam.
                                   

Day 65 - Basaga Kuching - Productivity was the order of the day

I awoke early as Rebecca left for her plane, finally some alone time with a room to myself. I returned to sleep but soon woke up again and headed to breakfast. It's much cooler here which I have no complaints about they guys were right when they said it was compared to Ketapang but you don't realise until your back. After two coffees and some scrambled egg and beans I was ready to start my day and I had a list. First and formost repack. 

My backpack has become a jumble over the past few days of travel. I also left a bag at Basaga of clothes unsuitable for Ketapang along with extra mosquito sprays and shower gels. It was now time to make it all squeeze back in my bag in an orderly easily findable manner. For those that know me it was a relaxing experience. Once finished I headed outside to sit by the pool and catch up on my neglected blog.

The coffee had done wonders to bring my brain to life and soon I was emersed in it, typing away before heading to the in house computer to upload the photos. The internet is quick here so within the hour I had completed the task. I even got a chance to look through my photos deleting ones that didn't look great blown up on a screen, giving me valuable space for the next leg of the journey.

After an immensely productive morning my tummy was grumbling but having been upset for a few days I stuck to salad which was a mountain and delicious. After downloading a few additional books it's was time for me and Kristi to head to Matang. Leo had kindly offered to let me stay at the facilitators house tonight with a view to work as requested by me tomorrow. 

The house is similar to Matang, tiled floors and a beautiful view of the mountains about a 10 minute walk from the centre. I settle into the guest room, popped some washing in the machine and then Kristi and I popped a DVD on. Twenty minutes in though it started to play up so we switched to another one. It took about three hours to get through as I dyed Kristis hair I the process. Never would have put a girls night in and Kristi in the same sentence but it was really nice. 

After the film we joined Dom outside enjoying the evening breeze. Eventually I decided to cook them dinner as it was getting late. We chatted a lot about the Orangs and Dom said we could join him tomorrow to go and work with them. Awesome!